When kitchens cross borders

When kitchens cross borders
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Rissois in Michael Swamy Roseate's pop-up

Rissois in Michael Swamy Roseate’s pop-up | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

“The Portuguese traveled along the coast of India from Bassein in Maharashtra to Kolkata in Bengal and settled in various parts and itinerary. Some also married into Indian families and as a result a unique Indo-Portuguese cuisine was born,” says chef Swamy, who recently highlighted the Portuguese contribution to Indian cuisine.

From cheese making to staples like potatoes, tomatoes, chillies, and even bread, much of our existing food can be attributed to the Portuguese. However, we know little about their versatile food. Likewise, the contribution of the Anglo-Indian community to the Indian culinary repertoire includes their unique adaptations of local ingredients and spices, such as the popular bottle of masala.

Bandra style grilled lamb chop with bottle of masala at Michael swamy Roseate pop up

Bandra style grilled lamb chop with bottle of masala in Michael swamy Roseate pop up | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

At a recent pop-up, Swamy combined recipes from the two communities. He chose two dishes from the Anglo-Indian community, Mutton Curry and English Trifle, which have become synonymous with Indian food over the years, and featured a range of his signature dishes that are popular at his Pune restaurants. , Delhi and Mumbai. .

The à la carte menu included appetizers, main courses and desserts along with signature bread and rice dishes from the communities. Small plates included dishes like Bhujing, made with flattened rice and chicken wrapped in leaves and roasted over charcoal; vegetarian and prawns risolesdeep-fried patties stuffed with spicy fillings and prawns marinated in coastal green masala and smoked in a tandoor.

Curried lentils with lamb at Michael Swamy's Roseate pop-up

Lentil curry with lamb at Michael Swamy’s Roseate pop-up | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

Below the main course, there was a selection of dishes such as lonvas (made with the popular Anglo-Indian bottle masala, coconut milk and stem), Vegetarian and fish chinchonia dish that translates as sour, and is made with kokum and local spices such as cloves, cinnamon, turmeric, among others; Lamb curry in lentil sauce served with pasta. Red rice creme brulee and a english trifle wrapped the dessert.

Given the treatment of recipes — the Bhujin, for example, it was roasted in the tandoor; one wonders if these are traditional recipes or their version of the classics. As it turns out, they are traditionally made just like Swamy, using poha and spices that are grilled over charcoal in a banana leaf. “It was a mill worker’s meal prepared early in the morning before the workers headed for work in the Vasai region of Mumbai. This dish is a local street food dish that is eaten even today,” Swamy Sharas, as he explains how in the Goa and Gujarat regions, meat is still cooked on a charcoal fire, wrapped in jute.

Cheese masala mousse in Michael Swamy Roseate pop-up

Cheese Masala Mousse in Michael Swamy Roseate Popup | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

Bottled masala, used in mutton curry, is a blend of 28 to 32 spices and is made by Anglo-Indians only in the summer months. “The masala would be stored in colored glass bottles and sealed with cloth and wax and used throughout the year. At the pop-up event, the masala was used in three dishes to show its versatility,” he says.

Himalayan Trout Chinchoni in Michael Swamy Roseate Pop-Up

Himalayan Trout Chinchoni in Michael Swamy Roseate Popup | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT


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